Ride Along the Costa Brava (Part II)

July 27^th, 2004

Safe and sound back in our apartment, I started making plans for my next ride. Carlos had mentioned a coastal mountain road between Sant Feliu and Tossa de Mar that was about 21 km (13.048795 mile) and was said to have a curve for everyday of the year. Looking at the map, I saw there was a nice route that would have me travel northwest on an open road, then south on a mountain road, and finally northeast on the twisting challenge.

Unfortunately, I was late getting started on my second ride. Somehow I got caught up in going to the beach, having a late lunch and siesta, and making arrangements for Carlos to watch the kids. It was six o'clock before we started out. Of course, my entire plan was shot. Knowing the road we were about to travel, my wife suggested we do the twisting road along the coast before it got dark. Having been married for a few years, I occasionally make the smart decision to listen to my wife. So we headed south for Sant Feliu to start the trip on the most challenging road (better first than at night).

Reaching Sant Feliu my wife turned onto the coastal road and immediately pulled to the side of the road. She told me to take the lead since there wasn't anyway I could get lost (no turn offs) and that she didn't want to slow me down. Smiling at her, I didn't have the heart to tell her I had been hoping she was going to be my excuse for keeping the pace down to a middle-aged joy ride. Mustering my courage, I started up the road.

The Costal View

Another Costal View

Coming down the Monster in one piece

Overlooking Tossa

Tossa Del Mar

Starting up the Monster

After 10K on the Monster

The Easy Curves...

First, let me say that the scenery was beautiful and it is the main reason I love going to the Costa Brava. The mountain cliffs sloping down to the sea are two of nature's greatest achievements in one location. However, I soon realized there wasn't going to be much site seeing on this trip. I don't know if the "curve for everyday of the year" is true, but I lost count after the first 100. There were curves of all types: nice rounded ones, banked curves with inclines, and sharp ones that looked like they changed directions to the right 90 degrees and then immediately back to the left 181 degrees. At times the cliff on my right side (I was headed southwest) appeared to be only inches away from my side mirror, and the drop off on the other side of the road left no doubt as to the cost of being too stupid.

I prided myself on almost doing the speed limit (40 km). I didn't let the fact that a local biker passed me, pressure me into out riding my ability (I knew he was local, because he had his girlfriend on the back). If there was ever a "white-knuckle" ride, this was it. Before I reached the halfway point, I knew that I was pushing the limit of my riding ability. The power of the bike and this snake of a road taught me a new respect for the differences in riding skills and equipment. I felt like I was riding class IV rapids in a cigarette boat after having just gotten my learner's permit. Wondering why my brother-in-law would recommend this road (I thought he liked me), I glanced at the speedometer and saw that he had 50,000 km on the bike. I knew that to him this would be just another Sunday ride. Now don't get me wrong. This was sort of like when I jumped out of an airplane. I was scared, but I went back for more. Although I realized that I would have to build up my ability to really get the full effect, I was enjoying the ride.

To my surprise, this road contained a couple of scenic overlooks (the Muse was happy). I stopped to wait for my wife and to snap a couple of pictures. Below the overlook was Tossa de Mar. It is a beautiful village on the sea, and has the charm of what I always think a coastal village should be. Despite being a little hazy, the scenery was lovely and we decided to have supper in a beachfront restaurant. The food was great, the scenery was wonderful, and the company delightful. Unfortunately, night was closing in and we still had two legs of the trip to make.

The road out of Tossa was similar to the first road I took the day before (narrow two lane mountain road). Of course after the coastal monster I had just driven, I thought I was on highway 17. A funny thing happened on this road. My confidence and ability was noticeable better. I wasn't stiff-arming the handlebars. I was actually shifting (up and down) to control the bike. I was leaning in the curves and looking into the next one. Instead of looking at my position, I was feeling my position. I was riding the bike. This 35 km road was the best part of all my rides. I had learned enough to control the bike (and myself) and the road had the feel of movement. At times it felt like the road was moving under the bike instead of the other way around. It was FUN!!

As we turned onto the last leg, darkness had set in and we headed for home. This was another three-lane road where the objective is to keep traffic moving. I was glad to see that traffic was light and we would be able to make good time. Running through the gears, I settled in behind my wife. I quickly noticed that the speedometer light was burned out and I couldn't tell how fast I was going. As my wife picked up the pace, the wind felt like someone was doing CPR on my chest. I knew I hadn't reached this speed on my earlier trips. After a short ride, we arrived home and I asked my wife how fast we were going. She said she couldn't tell because the speedometer light wasn't working in the car. I wondered what this said about my brother-in-law? (Not to mention my lovely wife who was driving by feel.)

That's the story of my "Ride Along the Costa Brava." I rode for about 135 km (83.885111 miles). I enjoyed it. I look forward to doing it again. And, I'm very thankful to Carlos for allowing me the opportunity to push the limits of my riding envelope.

By the way Phil, Carlos told me there is a track near Barcelona that is for sport riders who want to test their skills. It costs about $50 euros. I was thinking we should send a couple of writers to work up a story for our readers. What's the Biker eNews travel budget look like these days?

Hasta Pronto!!

Back to Part I

Back to "Muse from the Rest Area"

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